Diane Kruger At The Cannes Film Festival With Jaeger-lecoultre Watches

Since the sixteenth century, the field of women’s watches has continued to innovate and its charm has doubled: from low-key to dazzling, from mysterious to publicity, it has been trying to find the best among the aesthetic design, exquisite appearance and functional display. balance point.
   Jaeger-LeCoultre carried forward the traditional concept and created the “secret” watch with top cover, as well as flip and rotate models, ring watches, necklace watches, from the beautiful Art Deco art deco style to the vivid flower patterns, Everything is amazing. The unique combination of unique watchmaking techniques and fine jewelry techniques makes these timepieces full of temptation and elegance.
   Such ingenious works can only come from the well-known masters of Jaeger-LeCoultre, who fully master the perfect complex mechanical technology and exquisite and delicate gem setting technology.

This Movement Patek Philippe Has Spent 40 Years, Explain Patek Philippe 240 Movement In Detail

It is not too late to get to the topic. Compared with a few years ago, I now write more about the market and transactions of watches, because through these ‘practical experience’, players can see the real market situation and provide you with the most direct reference. Therefore, the value of the watch and the discount situation are often mentioned in the text. So some players always say that I am ‘superficial’ because you are always talking about money. So I will never talk about money this time, only about the movement.
   This year marks the 40th anniversary of Patek Philippe’s introduction of the 240 movement. It is the 40th anniversary of the 240 movement. So I want to share with you some stories about the movement 240.

Patek Philippe 240 movement from 1977 to 2017, watch usage.
   Currently, Patek Philippe does not use many types of movements in the mainstream models, mainly the following: 324 automatic winding movement, 240 automatic winding movement, 215 manual winding movement, CH28 automatic timing movement, CH29 manual timing machine core. Most watches and complex functions are based on these movements. 240 is one of the more special automatic movements, because the 240 movement is a ‘Pearl Tuo’ self-winding movement, it is also one of the few kinds of Pearl Tuo movements in the watch world.
It is amazing that the 240 movement was launched in 1977.

   Brothers who are familiar with the watch world know that the 1970s and 1980s were in the ‘quartz crisis’ period. Low-cost, accurate quartz movements dominate the watch market. Many brands and factories that make mechanical watches and mechanical movements have closed down. In this environment, Patek Philippe decided to invest in a new type of movement (I don’t know what Patek Philippe thought about at the time), this movement is today’s 240 Pearl Tuo movement.

Patek Philippe 240 movement.

   The 240 movement is designed as an ultra-thin self-winding movement using a pearl tourbillon (a micro-automatic tourbillon). Patek Philippe positions this movement as a classic, elegant watch. In 1977, the first watch using the 240 movement was 3738 (the Ellipse series pillow-shaped watch). From this watch, we can also see the positioning of the 240 movement by Patek Philippe. The 240 movement avoided the prevailing environment at the time, and was no less accurate than the quartz movement than the quartz movement. Instead, Patek Philippe wanted to highlight the exquisiteness, polishing, and intrinsic value of the 240 movement, as well as the eternal and long-lasting nature of the mechanical movement. Under maintenance, the mechanical movement can always be as brand-new as ever).

   The great thing about the Patek Philippe 240 movement is that although it is a self-winding movement, it is very thin. The Patek Philippe 215 ultra-thin manual winding movement is 2.55 mm thick, the 240 movement is only 2.53 mm thick, and the automatic 240 is thinner than the manual 215. It is also a self-winding movement. The Rolex 3135 is 6 mm thick, and the two 240 摞 are thinner than the 3135.

Patek Philippe 3738, 3738 is the first watch with 240 movement.
   Because the Patek Philippe 240 uses a small-sized, non-central automatic top, the 240 design team knows that the benefits of this design are thin, but the problem is that the automatic top is small and the winding efficiency is low (240 was designed by Gérard Berret). As a practical example, a brother of mine often said that his Cartier is easy to stop, mainly because some models of Cartier use a small size ETA2671 automatic winding movement, 2671 can be regarded as a small size version of 2824, although it is a full size The central automatic tourbillon, but because the automatic tourbillon is relatively small and light, the winding efficiency is not enough. If there is not enough activity in a day in the office, the power can only support one day. So for this problem, the 240 movement uses a 22K gold micro-automatic tourbillon to increase weight. At the same time, the 240 uses a single upward winding, on the one hand to reduce the thickness (reducing the reversing gears of the automatic gear train), and also to increase the effective stroke of the winding process, because the automatic winding is within a certain angle of rotation when winding in two directions In the commutation phase, winding is invalid in this angle. Another ‘black technology’ of Patek Philippe is to optimize the shape of the gear teeth. By modifying the shape of the gear teeth, the power efficiency is improved, the power loss is reduced, and the torque is kept stable. Because the transmission of the mechanical watch from the mainspring to the escapement wheel is essentially a 4-stage acceleration device, it completes huge acceleration through 4 gears. One gear rotates faster than one gear, and one gear is smaller than one gear, resulting in torque. During this transmission process, it decreased significantly. By modifying the tooth shape, Patek Philippe reduced the torque drop as much as possible. The information I know is that by optimizing the teeth, the 240 movement with a wobble frequency of 21,600 times per hour, the power loss is 20% less than the ordinary 28800 wobble frequency movement.
In these 40 years, some changes have taken place in the 240 movement itself, and different models have also been developed.

Patek Philippe 3940
   In 1985, Patek Philippe developed 240Q on the basis of 240. I think many of us should not be aware of the 240Q number, but this movement is actually familiar to players, that is, the 39.4 million calendar movement (Q stands for perpetual calendar). Because the 240 movement itself is very thin, plus the perpetual calendar module, the thickness is only 3.75 mm (think Rolex 3135 is 6 mm thick). 3940 is one of Patek Philippe’s most famous perpetual calendars. The size of 36 mm is matched with the small dial on the upper surface. The proportion is very coordinated and very beautiful.

Patek Philippe 5015

Patek Philippe 5712
   In 1994, Patek Philippe launched 240PS on the basis of 240. Similarly, you may not feel any sense when you look at the number. In fact, this is also a version you are very familiar with. The first time Patek Philippe used 240PS was on 5015. 240PS has a power indicator on the upper left side of the disk, a moon phase on the lower left side of the disk, and a small second hand at 5 o’clock (PS stands for small second hand). Yes, it is actually the movement of the Nautilus 5712. The 5712 steel case is now also one of Patek Philippe’s hottest, super-affordable watches.

Patek Philippe 5130

   In 2000, Patek Philippe launched 240HU on the basis of 240. The 240HU was used on the 5110 for the first time. Everyone is familiar with this movement, in fact, it is now 5130, 5131, 5230 (HU stands for Universal Time). Patek Philippe has installed the World Time module on the 240HU, which is the city outer circle and 24-hour inner circle style that we are all familiar with. After installing the World Time module, the thickness of the 240HU is only 3.88 mm.

Patek Philippe 5102

   In addition to these very common 240 versions, there are some special versions of the 240 movement. The first is 240LU CL C. Although this model is more complicated, but I want to use this movement watch, many players will know, 5102. It is the Patek Philippe with the starry sky and the Milky Way on the plate. I remember Beckham wearing this watch. Because the 240 movement itself is an automatic movement and very thin, it is very suitable for adding various complex functions. So we can see a lot of complex PP are 240 movements.

Patek Philippe 5550

   Another special 240 movement is the 240 used by Patek Philippe’s ‘Advanced Research Series’ on the 5550. 5550 is a perpetual calendar in the ‘Advanced Research Series’, which is based on 5940. The original 240 movement was modified. It is mainly equipped with Spiromax silicon balance spring, Pulsomax silicon escapement (including silicon escape wheel, escapement fork) and very special GyromaxSi balance wheel on 240. 5550 is mainly more of a new technology demonstration. With the improved 240 movement, the power has been increased from 48 hours to 70 hours.

Patek Philippe 6006

   At present, the 240 movements used by Patek Philippe on various models of watches have used silicon hairsprings. Among Patek Philippe’s new watches this year, one of the most important watches using the 240 movement is a replacement model 60006. Regarding the 6006 brothers, please refer to my previous article ‘What is the difference between the new 6006 and the previous generation of Patek Philippe?’ ‘Article.

Retro And Playful Panda Plate Do You Like It?

Bauchilai showed his talents at this year’s Basel Haute Horlogerie exhibition, taking into account both tradition and innovation, launching the Heritage BiCompax Annul watch, which will modernize the representative models of the 50th century Style interpretation. For lovers of history and culture and retro aesthetics, this beautifully contoured, vibrantly designed chronograph is a great timepiece. The master of Bucherer watchmaking takes the chronographs in the archives as the inspiration for the new series of double-calendar chronographs of the calendar, and reinterprets the classics in a contemporary style. (Watch number: 00.10803.08.12.01)

Watch real shot

This new model of the Bucherer heritage series double-dial chronograph with an annual calendar, the outline of the stainless steel case carries the classic style of the year, but the size has been increased to 41 mm. The year founded in 1888 echoed ingeniously. Available in stainless steel and steel rose gold. The stainless steel model has a silver dial with a black timer and an embossed rubber strap, creating a stylish dynamic in retro elegance.

宝 This Bucherer timepiece has a large calendar display window at 12 o’clock, and the dual sub-discs are respectively distributed at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions of the watch dial. The speedometer font and dual chronograph design of the watch are taken from the prototype version, combining old and new aesthetics to create this new modern timepiece.

除了 In addition to the timekeeping and calendar functions, this watch also has a monthly calendar display function, with a month display window between 4 and 5 o’clock.

The thickness of the watch case is 14.05 mm, the side of the case is carefully polished with a drawing process, and the bezel is polished.

宝 The crown of the watch is engraved with the classic Bucherer logo, and there are timing buttons on the crown.

新 This new dual-calendar chronograph of the Bucherer Almanac is equipped with a CFB 1972 automatic movement with a power reserve of 42 hours.

Stainless steel watch with embossed rubber strap, add dynamic and stylish to the retro elegant appearance.

Last year, Bucherer launched a heritage collection in New York to pay tribute to Bucherer’s watchmaking tradition. The heritage series continues to grow, and its limited edition models are unique in design and embody the essence of technology. If you like the elegance and feeling of vintage timepieces, but also the chic and dynamic of chronograph watches, then pay more attention to this limited edition watch.